Ricotta al Forno

(Baked ricotta cake)

Ingredients:

            2/3 cup sugar
            3 eggs, beaten
            4 level tablespoons of cornstarch, sifted
            450 grams fresh ricotta, one container, drained
            1/4 cup cream (I used light)
            2 lemons, zest & juice

Directions:

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Butter and line a 9- inch cake pan with parchment paper.

In a bowl, combine the sugar, eggs and cornstarch.

Using a hand mixer beat ingredients until smooth and lump-free.

Add the ricotta and mix on low speed until well combined. Add cream then lemon zest and juice, mix until smooth. Pour the batter into the cake pan.

Bake 45-50 minutes or until slightly golden brown on top. Test with a knife for doneness.

Mexican Lobster Salad

Serves 4

Ingredients:

            I pound cooked lobster meat, cut into bite size chunks

            Juice of ½ lime

            ¼ cup mayonnaise

            1 jalapeno or red chili pepper, minced

            1 stalk celery, finely chopped

            1 ½ tablespoon fresh minced cilantro

            1 hardboiled egg, chopped

            Freshly ground pepper and pinch of salt

            Assorted greens

Directions:

In a medium bowl toss the lobster meat with the lime juice. Mix in the mayonnaise, chili pepper, celery, cilantro and boiled egg. Add pepper and salt if needed to taste. Mix well to combine.

Refrigerate, keep chilled until ready to serve.

Bagna Cauda

Bagna cauda means, literally, “hot bath.” It is one of the most flavorful savory peasant dishes from the Piedmont region of Italy.  And it is quick and easy to prepare and can be served either as an appetizer or as a full meal, in the same dish or pot in which it is made.

Suggestion for presentation

Use a chafing dish, cast-iron pot, or flameproof earthenware casserole to heat the ingredients, than keep the dip hot over a candle warmer or spirit lamp.

To eat bagna cauda, hold a piece of bread in one hand and a piece of vegetable in the other.  Dip the vegetable into the sauce, hold it over the bread, and eat it.

The best vegetables to eat with your Bagna cauda are celery, savoy cabbage, fennel, cucumbers, radishes, red and green peppers but you can substitute any raw vegetable you like.

Cut the vegetables into a variety of shapes and soak them in a bowl of ice cubs and water for an hour to crisp them.  Dry them will and arrange them on a large platter or tray.  Serve them with the sauce a loaf of fresh Italian bread and a bottle of rough red wine, such as Barbera,

This savory dish can be a chic finger-food food treat for your next casual dinner with friends or family.

            1-cup extra virgin olive oil

            ¼ cup unsalted butter

            1 ½  tablespoon garlic, finely minced

            1 (2-ounce) can rolled anchovy fillets with capers

            3 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped

            2 teaspoons capers

Combine the olive oil, butter and garlic in a chafing dish, cash-iron pan, or enamel or earthenware casserole.  Simmer the ingredients for a few minutes over low heat.  Do not let the garlic turn brown.  Add the anchovies, parsley and capers.  Simmer, the mixture for 15 minutes, or until the flavors are will integrated.  The anchovies will dissolve.)  Remove the pot from the strove and place it over the candle warmer or spirit lamp. 

Serve it with assorted crisp vegetables like the ones mentioned above and warm Italian bread.   

 

Bergamot Sorbetto (Sorbet)

Yield: about 3 cups

This makes the perfect intermezzo or dessert for that summer meal on the back deck. Bergamot is a citrus fruit, the tree is a cross between an orange and lemon. Eighty percent is grown commercially in a 60-mile acre along the coast in Calabria. We know its flavor from the scent in Earl Gray Tea.

Photo, Francine Zaslow

Ingredients:

2 ½ cups water
1 cup sugar
Zest from one lemon and one orange
¼ cup each of freshly squeezed lemon juice and orange juice
1 teaspoon bergamot extract *

Directions:

  1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat combine ½ cup water and sugar. Add the lemon and orange zests and heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar is completely dissolved.
  2. Remove from the heat and add the remaining 2 cups water and the bergamot. Chill thoroughly in the refrigerator.
  3. Stir the lemon and orange juices into the sugar syrup, then put the mixture in a stainless bowl or in an ice cream maker following manufacturer’s directions. When it is frozen, remove from freezer or ice cream maker and with an electric hand beater beat the mixture to incorporate air into the sorbetto. Refreeze and repeat this 2 more times and again just before serving. This will give the sorbetto a white creamy consistency.
  4. The Cook Shop in Brewster carries the extract.

Making friends with the cheesemakers

Food has a way of bringing people together in a myriad of ways. As the Guarascios’ guest, I was invited and included into their home and their family and enjoyed a lovely, homemade meal. I also experienced the togetherness of a family that lives and works together.

For years I have visited and written about the culture and cuisine of northern Italy, especially the areas in and around Bologna, Modena and Ferrara. Last February, I found myself headed south to where the Apennines Mountains, the 750-mile mountain range that continues through the spine of Italy, end – at the “toe” in Reggio di Calabria, the largest city in Calabria.

This is a region I have always been interested in visiting, and using this as my home base I was able to explore this exciting, rustic region of Italy.

One of my first adventures was to the quaint town of Scilla, north of Reggio Calabria in the Costa Viola, a stretch of beautiful coastline looking out towards the Aeolian Islands. Here I visited with Rocco Galletta, whose vineyard grew on shelved terraces on the steep slopes. Rocco took me for a ride through the vineyard on a rickety device called a “monorack,” something like an old carnival train, which broke down at the half-way mark. This monorack (when it’s working) carries freshly picked grapes through the vineyards for making wine.

From here I headed to the ancient castle of Scilla, perched high on a cliff, to marvel at the breathtaking views of the sea below and beyond.

My next excursion took me out of the city to sample an array of Calabresi specialties at Sirianni.

This factory/store is owned and operated by Angela Zappia and makes specialty products. I tasted the typical hot peppers of Calabria, chopped and packed in oil; the famous Tropea onions, cooked and turned into a condiment; a marmalade made from the bergamot fruit; and the region’s famous enduja (pronounced en-DOO- ya), a spicy, spreadable pork salami that has become a unique food item here in the states. I sampled them all! And I was able to pack a few of the specialties in my suitcase and take them home with me.

A few days later I ventured up the coast to Cosenza, a cultural hub with museums, theaters and the University of Calabria. Here I roamed the town’s ancient buildings and landmarks and explored the “open air museum,” a street stretching several blocks through the center of the town. This “museum” boasts a wide range of modern art sculptures. One that especially caught my eye was a sculpture of St. George and the Dragon by Salvador Dali, .

As I ate in restaurants and tasted a variety of wines I was served a sampling of delicious mountain cheeses made with goat and sheep’s milk. I needed to learn more about these wonderful cheeses. I made a few inquiries and heard of a four-generation family of cheesemakers high in the mountains outside of Reggio.

I decided to pay them a visit.

In the morning when I left my hotel in it was clear and sunny, with the temperature in the 60s. I threw on a light jacket, got in the car, and headed up a winding road filled with hairpin turns and speeding cars. Two hours later, when I arrived in the village of San Giovanni in Fiore, high in the mountains, it was snowing, sleeting, and miserably cold.

But when I got out of the car I was greeted by the friendly, smiling faces of the Cuarascio family of cheesemakers I’d come to visit. They escorted me into a small and even colder room where they made their specialty cheeses. From here we went to the barn, where there were hundreds of sheep and goats with different colored streaks on their backs signifying their age. It was several weeks before Easter, and I was told many would be slaughtered and sold for the holiday and only 100 would be kept for making cheese.

Then it was back out into the sleet and snow and up a flight of stairs into the main house. I was immediately drawn to the roaring fire in the fireplace to warm up. As I warmed, I looked around and saw what you would typically expect to see in an Italian home: There was a picture of the Virgin Mary, a crucifix on the wall, a wreath of artificial flowers over the fireplace, and a large table down the center of the room covered with a plastic table cloth

I was introduced to Filomena, the mother, who immediately covered the table with a fancy embroidered tablecloth.

Then came the food: a plate of the family’s special formaggio stagionato, a hard cheese made by blending equal parts sheep and goat’s milk and aged for at least 10 months (similar to the Parmesan of the north); formaggio semi sragianato, a semi-hard cheese, made the same way but aged for only two months; a platter of head cheese. This delicacy is made from the meat of pig’s head and something I remember my grandparents made regularly in the fall; a fancy platter of homemade sausages, marinated olives and slabs of ½-inch thick prosciutto; a basket of bread and — of course– a bottle of homemade red wine. I felt right at home!

Food has a way of bringing people together in a myriad of ways. As the Guarascios’ guest, I was invited and included into their home and their family and enjoyed a lovely, homemade meal. I also experienced the togetherness of a family that lives and works together. I know the Guarascio’s sensed my appreciation and love for what they were sharing with me, a validation of their love for food and family.

Connecting with these, hardworking families with their customs and traditions, is where I find my passion and pleasure and experience my biggest joys in life.

When I arrived back at my hotel in Reggio, the weather was warm and sunny. I thought about my trip to the mountains and meeting the large Guarascio family. It reminded me of my warm, family bonds I once had as a small child in Sagamore.

Ricotta Pesto Spread for Crostini

Serves 6 to 8 as as appetizer

Calabria is famous for its ricotta cheese. I had it several times and it is one of the best I have ever tasted. Here is a version made with fresh pesto for use as a spread. It can also be tossed into fresh warm pasta.

Ingredients:

1 cup of whole milk ricotta cheese
3 to 4 tablespoons fresh pesto (recipe below)

Directions:

Squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
12 to 14 (1-inch) wide slices of toasted bread from a French baguette
In a medium bowl mix the ricotta with the pesto. Spread on toasted bread and serve.

Fresh Basil Pesto

Makes about 1 1/4 cup

If I am not pressed for time I like to make my pesto the old-fashioned way, in the marble mortar and pestle I bought in Italy. If I am pressed for time I use the food blender.

Instructions for blender or food processor method.

Ingredients:

1 pinch coarse salt
2 cups fresh basil leaves, cleaned and with spines removed
2 large garlic cloves, peeled, with the green heart removed
¼ cup toasted pine nuts
2 tablespoons each finely grated Parmesan and Romano cheese*
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, approximately
A dollop of soft butter
Salt to taste, if needed

Directions:

In a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade combine the basil and garlic and blend into a fine paste, scraping down the sides of the bowl when necessary. Add the pine nuts and cheeses and process until smooth. With the machine running, add the olive oil in a steady stream and mix until smooth and creamy, then stir in the butter. If sauce is too thick, a little warm water poured through the tube while the machine is running will smooth it out.

To keep the pesto, place it in small containers 90 percent full and pour a thin layer of olive oil over the top, cover and refrigerate will keep for several days. *If you choose to freeze the pesto, eliminate the cheeses until ready to use. I use a small ice tray to freeze pesto. Portions are perfect for using in sauces or for a serving of fresh pasta.

‘Nduja with Pasta

Makes 2 servings

Nduja is one of Calabria’s most famous exports. This sausage mix packs a lot of heat thanks to blend of local chili peppers. In this dish it is paired with another of Calabria’s well-known culinary stars. This recipe many be doubled to make 4 servings.

Ingredients:

9 ounces fileja pasta (for a substitute, casarecce or collizione pasta from Brella)
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons ’Nduja*
1 ½ cup plum tomatoes
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of salt to taste
1/4 cup red wine
4 to 5 shredded fresh basil leaves
¼ cup shredded ricotta salata*

Directions:

  1. Heat olive oil in a large pot on medium high heat. Add garlic and sauté until it softens. Then mix in ’nduja. When it begins to incorporate in the oil, pour in the red wine and cook until the sauce reduces by half. In the meantime, use either a hand or regular blender to puree plum tomatoes.
  2. Add the puree mixture to the saucepan and cook on medium heat for about 20 to 30 minutes.
  3. Add in fresh basil in the last few minutes for extra aroma and flavor.
  4. While the sauce is cooking, place fileja pasta in salted boiling water. Cook for about 8 to 10 minutes or until done. Strain pasta and add it into sauce so flavors integrate well.
  5. Place in individual warm bowls topped with the grated cheese and serve.
  6. *Ricotta Salata is an Italian cheese made from the whey part of sheep milk, which is pressed, salted and aged for at least 90 days. It is milky white in color with firm texture and salty taste.
  7. The cheese is often used in salads and ideal for slicing, crumbling and grating.

Celery Root Soup (Also known as celeriac)

Serves 8 to 10

This is a delicious soup I had in a restaurant Calabria. It was served with freshly sliced truffles on top. Since fresh truffles are hard to come by I suggest a drizzle of truffle oil on the top.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, cleaned and chopped
1 or 2 garlic cloves
1 large or 2 small celery root (about 3 pounds) peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 small Yukon Gold potato, peeled and cut into 2-in cubes
1 cup dry white wine
5 cups chicken broth
1 cup water
Salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste
½ cup heavy cream

Directions:

  1. In a large saucepan melt the butter with the oil.
  2. Add the leeks and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently. If leeks start to brown, add a little more oil or butter.
  3. Stir in the garlic, and cook for a few minutes, Add the celery root, potato and white wine. Cook until wine evaporates. Add the chicken broth and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a medium simmer and cook with the lid to the pot ajar on top, until the celery root and potato pieces are fairly soft (about 45 to 50 minutes). Add the salt and pepper and cream.
  4. Place in a blender and puree until smooth. Adjust seasoning. If soup is to thick, thin it with a little stock or water.
  5. To serve, rewarm in saucepan and ladle into warm bowls. Drizzle with a little truffle oil.

Cassoulet

(Allow at least 1½ days, including a final baking period of 3 hours.) Cassoulet gets its name from the casserole, the large earthenware pot it is cooked in. I was first introduced to it when I was invited to a party by my friend Sally Darr, former chef/owner, with her husband John, of La Tulipe in New York City (1979-1991). Out of her kitchen she came carrying a large clay pot, one she had bought in France, especially made for cooking cassoulet. It was bubbling around the edges and topped with several pieces of crispy confit of duck on a bed of toasted, seasoned breadcrumbs. As the aromas of garlic and braised meats filled the room, I was hooked. There are many variations of this French classic. This is mine.

Preparation

To prepare lamb: Season the lamb liberally with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Melt fat in heavy saucepan and brown lamb in batches. Remove from pan, set aside.

In same pan, add a little more fat. Add the onion, carrot and celery. Sauté until vegetables wilt and start to color. Add the garlic; cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in wine and tomato puree. Simmer for another minute or two. Add stock, tomatoes, bay leaves and rosemary, and simmer, covered, for 1½ hours. Cool and refrigerate until ready to use in cassoulet the next day.

To prepare beans: Soak the beans overnight in cold water or use quick-soaking method. Drain the beans and place in a large 8-quart pan with 4 quarts water. Add bouquet garni, bacon and garlic sausage and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Remove sausage after 30 minutes, cool, remove casing and cut into ½–inch slices. Continue cooking the beans until tender, about 45 to 60 minutes longer. Drain beans, reserving liquid.

To finish cassoulet: While beans are cooking, brown pork belly in rendered fat. Remove from skillet.

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Put lamb mixture and pork belly into the pot in which beans were cooked. Heat just until soft enough to break apart.

Season 4-quart casserole by rubbing it with garlic. To assemble the dish, begin by spreading half the beans in the bottom of the casserole dish. Top with half the sausage slices, then half of the lamb-pork mixture. Repeat with remaining beans, sausage, and lamb-pork mixture. Add about one-half cup of bean liquor (or as much as needed) to moisten. Top with one-third of breadcrumbs, and drizzle with more rendered fat.

Bake for one hour, or until crumb topping is golden and crusty. Stir crumbs into dish. Add another third of breadcrumbs, drizzling with more fat. Bake another hour, or until this topping is also golden and crusty. Stir topping back into dish and add last third of breadcrumbs, drizzling with fat. Bake for final hour.

Vacation Fare is a Lasting Souvenir

When I talked to my editor about doing an article on Jamaica, she told me about Coonamessett Farm in Falmouth where workers prepare a Jamaican buffet every Wednesday.a

Our conversation reminded me of some of the recipes I brought back from a winter vacation in Jamaica, a vacation that was supposed to be 10 days of total relaxation in the tropical sun. Instead, it became clear to me after a few meals that the island’s food and the people who cook it were too interesting to ignore. When I recall the very special meals I had in Jamaica, I think of summer on Cape Cod. Jamaica’s unique food, with its fresh ingredients, many of which are available on the Cape, is adaptable for a light summer meal. So I put together several recipes for summer eating, but first – back to Jamaica.

I landed in Montego Bay without a reservation and walked around looking for a room. I came across a small resort not far from the airport called Lady Diane’s Seawatch. What attracted me was the tranquility of the place. After I checked in, I learned it was a macrobiotic spa. I am not sure it still exists, but the experience of staying there was one I have never forgotten. The front of the building, where the reception desk was located, was open to the sea; fresh flowers and orchids were everywhere. Meals were served on a deck by the swimming pool, which was surrounded by palm trees. I remember how gracious and warm the owners were. They wanted the resort to be a haven for people to eat healthful vegetarian foods in a stress-free environment. They grew many of the vegetables in their garden and also bought produce from local farmers. They even bought carrots from the women who cleaned my room.

I was thrilled the day I was invited into the kitchen with the chef to learn how to prepare her Jamaican version of escoveitch fish. The fresh red snapper was cut into pieces and marinated in a sauce of tamari, fresh ginger, grated onion, and a little minced garlic. It was fried and topped with a colorful blend of fresh sautéed peppers, then seasoned with a splash of vinegar that brought all the flavors alive.

This meal was served with brown rice cooked in coconut milk and black beans mixed with chopped scallions and fried plantains. It was delicious!

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This dish is best when made several hours (or the day before) you plan to serve it, refrigerated, and served at room temperature. Any firm white fish can be used. Try it with halibut or striped bass, which is now in season.

Escoveitch Fish

2 pounds any firm white fish

1/4 cup grated onion

1 tablespoon fresh

grated ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons tamari

or soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Oil for frying

Dash or two of red

crushed pepper

1 cup sliced onions

1 red pepper, sliced

1 green pepper, sliced

2 tablespoons white vinegar

Cut fish into 2-inch pieces and place in a large glass bowl. Add the grated onion, ginger, garlic, tamari or soy sauce, black pepper and paprika: mix well and marinate at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. Put 1/4-inch of oil in large skillet and place on high heat, heating oil until it smokes. Add the fish a few pieces at a time and fry until lightly browned, turning frequently. The fish should not be cooked all the way through just lightly browned. Remove from pan and place on a paper towel to drain.

Put the red and green peppers, sliced onions, 1 tablespoon of oil, and the crushed red pepper in the same skillet; sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the vinegar and cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Place the fish on a platter and pour the vegetable mixture over it. Let rest at room temperature for a few hours, then serve. Serves 4

Brown Rice with Black Beans

1 (15.5-ounce) can

black beans, rinsed

1 (14-ounce can) unsweetened coconut milk

2 cups water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 sprig fresh thyme OR

1/2 teaspoon dried

1 1/2 cups brown rice,

washed and drained

2 scallions, chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a saucepan, place the coconut milk, water, salt, and thyme. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, stirring occasionally. Turn heat to low, cover, and cook for 35 to 40 minutes, shaking the pot from time to time until the grains have separated. If rice becomes too dry, add a little hot water. When rice is cooked, remove thyme sprig and stir in black beans. Heat, mix in the scallions, salt and pepper to taste. Makes 6 to 8 servings

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Plantains are found year-round in your local produce department. If they are not available regular green bananas will do.

Fried Plantains

3 plantains

1 lime

Peanut oil for frying

Salt

Remove the skin from the plantains and cut lengthwise into 2 to 3 strips; rub with a little lime juice to prevent from discoloring.

Put 1/2-inch of peanut oil in an iron skillet and heat to about 375 degrees. Fry the plantains until golden brown. Drain on paper towel; salt to taste.

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Sorrel comes dried and is a member of the hibiscus family. It can be purchased at any Latin market, such as Tropical Foods in Roxbury. It makes a wonderful, light, refreshing drink that is a favorite drink for Christmas and New Year in Jamaica and perfect for hot summer days on Cape Cod. (Sorrel is not related to the European sorrel, the spinach-like leaves that are prepared more or less like spinach.)

Hibiscus or Sorrel Drink

2 cups sorrel

6 cups boiling water

Sugar syrup (see recipe for sugar syrup)

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

In a saucepan, add the sorrel and water. Bring to a boil, stir, cover and let cool for 1 hour. Then strain and add the lime juice and sugar syrup to taste.

Note: This drink should not be made thick and sweet but light and refreshing. So, keep the sugar syrup to a minimum. Serve with slices of lime and lots of ice. Makes about 6 cups

Sugar Syrup

This is sometimes called ”simple syrup” and is used in many mixed drinks.

Combine 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a sauce pan; bring to a boil, stirring, and cook about 3 minutes, until sugar is dissolved.

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I happened to be having dinner at the Bistro Bar at Bleu Restaurant in Mashpee Commons. While talking to the bartender, Gail Pendegast, about rum drinks, she came up with this one. Next time you are at Bleu ask Gail to make one for you. It’s a good thirst-quenching drink for a hot summer night.

Jamaican Delight

1 ounce amber rum

3/4-ounce apricot brandy

3 ounces pineapple juice

1/2-ounce fresh lime juice

1/4-ounce sugar syrup (see recipe for sugar syrup)

In a shaker combine rum, brandy, lime juice, pineapple juice, sugar syrup and crushed ice; cover, shake vigorously, and then pour into a 12-ounce glass. Garnish with a lime or a pineapple slice. Serves 1

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This is a rum martini. It is a luscious but strong drink. One as an aperitif to stimulate the appetite is enough. Sip and enjoy.

Lime Daiquiri

Juice of 2 limes

1 ounce sugar syrup

6 ounces rum

Crushed ice

Lime twist for garnish

In a shaker combine the lime juice, sugar syrup, rum and crushed ice; cover and shake vigorously then pour into a stemmed glass. Serves 1

(Published: August 3, 2005)

Taking Vacation Home With You

Whenever I visit Mexico, I find the food and culture the most fascinating, exciting, and unique part of the experience. Once a year, I leave winter and work-related business behind and lay in the warm sun and go for long swims in the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean. There’s a strip of beach along the Yucatan coast that seems to go on for miles and has become my home away from home. “What will I cook for supper?” is the biggest decision I have to make during any given day.

Wealth of ingredients

There are two Mexicos – the tourist scene, which I avoid, and the real Mexico. As a voyeur, I absorb and delve into the background and lifestyle of the Mayan culture, its sensual food, and all the unusual flavors that surround me. Since the focus of Mexican cuisine is on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients, I like to use as many as I can. I frequent the local markets, which are usually brimming with juicy and, quite often, unique fruits, vegetables, and chilies, as well as exotic spices in little plastic bags. Sometimes I come across items I’ve never seen before, but many can also be found in the produce department of my supermarket at home.

Rich mole has long history

One of my favorite ingredients at my local marketplace in Mexico is the assortment of moles, which can be found in large ceramic bowls. The word mole means stew or “concoctions.” It is a rich dark sauce with chocolate (that’s right, chocolate), chilies, spices, herbs, groundnuts, seeds, and a variety of other ingredients. Every Mexican household has its version of a mole.

In Oaxaca, known for its culinary traditions and famous for its seven moles, the most popular type is “mole poblano.” Its’ history supposedly goes back to 1698 to the Santa Rosa convent in Pueblo. It was here one of the nuns invented the dish “Mole pablano de guajalate” and served it over turkey to please a visiting viceroy.

Food evokes memories

The hardest thing about my Mexican holiday is that it can’t go on forever. I have to leave sunny beaches and idle days and return to the wintry Northeast. But I bring my vacation home with me. I make one of my favorite dishes, chicken mole, and I’m transported right back to Mexico. I start with freshly fried chips, salsa, and guacamole. The mole is served with rice and refried beans topped with a small dollop of sour cream. For a vegetable I like chayote (cha-YOH-tay, a tropical pear-shaped squash) steamed and tossed with butter, salt, and pepper. Select the ones that are smallest and darkest green for best flavor and texture. And, of course, what would a trip to Mexico be without the perfect Margarita?

Food can trigger memories; a smell or a specific taste brings back a certain time or a treasured experience. The next time you take a trip and have a special dish, remember that moment, savor it, and try to create that food (and memory) in your own home. You will not only taste the food but the experience you were having at that time, and you too can be transported back to your vacation.

Here is a simple version using a prepared mole that is delicious and can be cooking while you have appetizers or get the rest of the meal together. I usually bring some prepared mole back with me from Mexico; when that’s gone, I use a brand called Dona Maria. Recently I found mole and other Latino products at Trader Joes in Hyannis and tested this recipe with that brand.

Chicken Mole

1 whole chicken, cut up preferably organic or free-range

Salt and pepper

Flour for dredging the chicken

2 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

1/4 cup white wine

1 cup mole

1 1/2 cups chicken stock, more if necessary

1 (4-ounce can) tomato sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Clean, wash, and dry the chicken pieces and season with salt and pepper.

Dredge the chicken with the flour and shake off excess.

Heat the butter and oil in a large pan and brown the chicken on all sides; remove and keep warm. In the same pan, discard all but 3 to 4 tablespoons of the fat; add the onions and cook until they start to brown. Add the wine, cook two to three minutes, then add the chicken broth and tomato sauce, and stir in the mole until well combined. Return the chicken to the sauce. Cover and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours on low heat, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. To serve, sprinkle each serving with 1/4 tablespoon sesame seeds. Serves 4 to 6.

If you choose to make your own “mole poblano,” here is Leo Romero’s recipe he makes in his restaurant, Casa Romero, 30 Gloucester St. in Boston. It would be a great way to spend an afternoon with a few friends. Divide the recipe up and assign each person a task. You will see how much fun it is to create a famous Mexican mole. Make this large batch and freeze the rest.

Part 1 (the base) is a basic red chile sauce and can be used for enchiladas or chili. Part II (the enhancement) is what converts the base into a rich mole.

Casa Romero’s Mole Poblano

Part 1 – The Base

10 ancho chilies (dried)

10 mulato chilies (dried)

10 guajillo chilies (dried)

2 chipotle chilies (dried)

2 cups chopped onion

4 garlic cloves

1 cup roasted tomato pulp

2 bay leaves, crushed

8 cups water

Soak the chilies in 8 cups water for about 30 minutes until soft and reconstituted. Remove the stems and seeds. Place the chilies in a saucepan along with the remaining ingredients and the strained water in which the chilies were soaked and bring to a rapid boil. Turn down the heat and cover. Simmer for about 20 minutes.

Part II – The Enhancement

4 fried corn tortillas torn into small pieces

2 tablespoons raisins

4 tablespoons roasted almonds

2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds

1/2 cup roasted peanuts

1 1/2 tablets Mexican chocolate (if not available substitute with 2 tablespoons cocoa, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and an additional 1 teaspoon cinnamon)

1 tablespoon oregano

1 tablespoon ground anise seed

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon ground clove

1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 cups chicken stock

Incorporate all ingredients into the saucepan with the simmering chilies and add two more cups of chicken stock. Simmer over very low heat for 20 minutes, watching carefully that it doesn’t thicken too much or scorch. Add more chicken stock if necessary. Allow to cool, then blend and strain through a ricer or large strainer to remove and discard any seeds or skin that remain. This recipe makes approximately 16 servings. Freeze what is left over for future use.

(Published: March 2, 2005)