Food stylist John Carafoli finds the Yucatan’s fish, fruits and vegetables are a feast for eyes and stomach.

Va-ca-tion: 1.a period of suspension of work, study, or other activity, usually used for rest, recreation, or travel; 2. recess or holiday; 3. freedom or release from duty, business or activity.
While the definition of a “vacation” is seemingly straightforward, different people interpret the word quite differently. In fact, there are as many types of vacations as there are people.

The only way I can take a true vacation is to escape completely from my work and home on Cape Cod in the middle of the winter and go to Mexico. For the past eight years, I have been renting a house in the Yucatan, on a strip of deserted beach in the state of Quintana Roo, one of the last peaceful outposts.

There are no phones, no TV or radio, and no shoes or heavy clothes required for an extended stay. All that I experience is the sound of the rolling ocean, the rustling of palm trees, and a view of the sandy beach. For me, this is truly a vacation setting. The routine is the same every year. I pick up the car, buy staples at the supermarket, and drive two hours to a 10-mile road filled with potholes. As soon as I arrive at my destination, everything is left in the car. I grab my bathing suit (it was placed in the duffel bag for easy access) and off I go on a long ocean swim. Instantly, I am at ease in a remote paradise.

No matter where I happen to be, my desire for authentic, fresh food prevails. The next day, I am back in the car for a 20-minute drive, dodging the potholes to the local village. My errand is to pick up warm corn tortillas bundled in brown paper from the tortilleria (tortilla factory), and wonderful fresh produce from my favorite outdoor markets.

The wooden booths are laden with ripe red roma tomatoes – the best I have had since last summer’s crop here on the Cape – and a variety of exotic fruits and vegetables. I buy tomatoes for fresh salsa along with perfectly ripe Haas avocados for guacamole and my favorite simple salad which consists of tomatoes, cut into chunks, thinly sliced white onion, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, fresh-squeezed lime juice, salt and fresh ground pepper to taste. There is an array of beautiful, fresh chilies such as poblano, jalapeños (red and green), serrano, Anaheim and habanero (the hottest variety of chili known), as well as white and red onions, peeled by the natives.

I search out fresh fruits like papaya, mango, and delicious oranges for fresh squeezed juice in the morning, and also tangy limes for cooking and making my perfect margaritas. The food is a feast for the eye as well as for the stomach. My fish – red snapper, grouper or even barracuda and lobsters – has already been purchased from local fishing boats. I flag them down as they pass by the beach in the late afternoon. The fishermen even fillet the fish.

It is never dull cooking in Mexico with all of the fresh produce and fish, but cooking in a rented house does have its challenges. My house contains the bare minimum of kitchen equipment. The stove is a two-burner gas camping stove that I also use to char peppers, chilies and tortillas. There is no oven. For cooking rice, beans, and my “Tequila Tomato Sauce”, I have only a worn-out, battered aluminum pot with a lid. For frying tortillas and eggs, there is a broken-down, non-stick pan. I do insist on one luxury though: the sharp, professional knives that I bring from home.

Several of the meals I cook in Mexico are hard to reproduce here in the U.S. Many of the products, like unpasteurized cream, cheeses and some produce items, are just not available and substitutes have the tendency to yield completely different flavors. I have kept any hard-to-find ingredients to a minimum in the following recipes.

This colorful, exciting fiesta dinner exemplifies all that makes cooking in Mexico such an adventure for me. All of the produces may be found in your local supermarket.

My trips to Mexico have turned me into a perfectionist – no, a snob – when it comes to my favorite cocktail, the margarita. I’ll happily wait to enjoy them until winter, when limes are at their peak because their flavors are at their best. I do part company, however, with those who insist on the conventional bell-shaped margarita glass. On vacation, or if I am serving more people than I have glasses for, I’ll use a small, one-cup water tumbler with straight edges.

It is essential to start with a quality 100 percent agave (the plant tequila is made from) tequila. Look for reposado, which means aged. Never consider using a mix, and use only fresh lime juice. After mixing, let it rest in the pitcher for several minutes before pouring the four servings. Melting the ice slightly is an essential step for the success of this drink. As an accompaniment, I fry up some quartered, corn tortillas for chips and serve them with salsa.

Carafoli’s Favorite Margarita

1 lime wedge

Several tablespoons salt, preferably kosher

5 ounces tequila

4 ounces Cointreau

3 to 4 ounces fresh lime juice

8 to 10 ice cubes, crushed

Moisten the rims of four stemmed glasses with the lime wedge. Pour salt into a small, flat dish and swirl the rims of the glasses in the salt to coat. In a large pitcher, combine the tequila, Cointreau, lime juice and ice. Stir to mix and let stand for several minutes. Stir again just before pouring into prepared glasses, and garnish with a lime wheel if desired.

I developed this recipe in Mexico using grouper, but you can use any firm, white fish. Serve with rice and black beans topped with a little sour cream. Also, serve warm flour tortillas in a basket with a colorful napkin.

Fish in Tequila Tomato Sauce

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

1 Poblano pepper, seeded and cut into strips

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup tequila

3 tablespoons Cointreau

1 (32-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes, crushed

3 bay leaves

3 tablespoons capers

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh chopped herbs (thyme, marjoram and oregano)

10 black peppercorns, crushed

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

Salt to taste

Flour for the fish (about 1/2 cup)

2 tablespoons butter

3 pounds haddock fillets or any other firm, white fish, cut into 6 pieces

Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onions and poblano pepper and sauté until translucent and tender. Add garlic and cook for 3 minutes, being careful not to burn the garlic. 2. Remove pan from heat, to a place with no flammable materials nearby. Add the tequila and Cointreau, and, while turning your face away from the pan, ignite. Return to heat and shake pan until flames dissipate, cooking for 3 to 4 minutes until alcohol evaporates.

Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, capers, herbs, peppercorns, cilantro and salt. Cover and cook for 20 to 30 minutes over medium heat.

Dredge the fish in flour, shaking off excess. In a sauté pan or cast iron skillet heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter and quickly sauté the fish until golden, turning carefully (approximately one to two minutes per side).

Transfer the fillets to the tomato mixture, and cover with sauce. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 10 to 12 minutes or until fish flakes when tested with a fork.

Salsa Cruda, nothing more than uncooked tomato sauce, is one of the most common condiments in Mexico. Serve it with warm tortilla chips. Try making your own tortilla chips by cutting the tortillas in quarters and frying them in vegetable oil. Drain them on paper towels and then sprinkle with a little salt. The aroma will fill the house and your guests will be impressed when they come through the door thinking they are in a real Mexican kitchen. For a colorful appetizer, steam some mussels or Cherrystones, place them on a large platter, and top with this sauce.

Salsa Cruda

3 medium ripe but firm tomatoes, chopped

1 or 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded, ribs removed and finely chopped

1 medium red, green or yellow pepper, seeded, ribs removed and finely chopped

1/2 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped

1 medium white onion, finely chopped

Juice of 1 lime

Salt to taste

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Mix well and serve at room temperature. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

(Published: March 5, 2003)

Desserts of Christmas Past
Returning to the village of Sagamore, a food columnist finds cooks are still making the Italian sweets he remembers growing up.

As the holidays approach, I long for the special seasonal desserts created by the Italian women in the small village of Sagamore, where I grew up. Although the village itself is all but gone, a few of the Italian women, now in their 80s and 90s, help keep the old days alive by baking their specialties at this time of year.

Orange Zabaglione, a light custard
(Staff photo by Kevin Mingora)
A few weeks ago, I knocked on the door of Clementine Tassanari, now 90 years old. As I stood on the doorstep, the warm aroma of something baking wafted under the door and transported me back to my childhood. Clem graciously welcomed me into her home, just as she did when I was a child. The house was filled with the wonderful smell of cranberry bread she was baking for the church bake sale. At least eight loaves stood cooling on the kitchen counter.

We sat down at her kitchen table, and Clem brought out her tattered personal recipe books. The books were filled with dozens of hand-written recipes she had accumulated over the decades, from the days when she and other women in the neighborhood collected and exchanged favorites with each other.

“I always cooked to please my family,” she told me. “Since everyone around here always cooked a little differently, I’d gather favorites that someone around our table really loved.”

Like most Italian women of that generation, she learned to cook by watching her mother.

“My mother never measured, but as she was cooking a recipe with a little of this and a little of that, I sat at the table, stopping her to measure what she was putting in the recipe, and then wrote it down.”

Among the assortment of hand-written recipes, I found one for Alba Papi’s “Bugies” (pronounced BU-ZEES) written in Alba’s own antique handwriting. Bugies were one of my childhood favorites, consisting of thin strips of dough tied in knots, deep-fried and dusted with powdered sugar. Mrs. Papi passed away a few years ago and was one of the great cooks of the neighborhood. Clem was glad to share this recipe with me, and I’m happy to have a copy of this for my own recipe book and to be able to share it with you.

I left Clem’s warm house wrapped in the aroma of warm cranberry bread, and filled with an abundance of memories, as well as feelings of sadness and loss for the Italian traditions that are so much a part of who I am. My afternoon with Clem reminded me of the power of food in connecting with one’s emotional past.

Here are recipes for several of the traditional holiday desserts I still remember fondly, which I hope you’ll enjoy.

This recipe, which has many variations, is a dense, rich rice cake best when served with a dollop of slightly sweetened whipped cream. Making this dessert the day before serving it allows the flavors to marinate. It can be made either in two 7-inch spring form pans that make smaller cakes, or one large pan that takes longer to bake but results in a higher cake.

Torta Di Riso (Rice Cake)

3 1/2 cups milk

1 cup (7 ounces) imported Arborio rice

5 large eggs

1 1/4 cups sugar

1 teaspoon almond extract

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

3/4 cup candied citron, finely diced

1/2 cup almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons butter

Bread crumbs for dusting pans

Whiskey

In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan with cover, combine the milk and rice. Bring to a gentle boil over high heat. Turn heat to low, cover tightly and cook about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to check for sticking. The rice should be a little tender but still resistant to the bite. The mixture will also be a little soupy. Turn into a large bowl and allow it to cool.

Butter 2 (7-inch) spring form pans, dust with breadcrumbs and set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Beat the eggs and the sugar with an electric beater until well combined. Add the almond extract, vanilla, and lemon zest. Pour egg mixture into the cooled rice and fold in the citron and almonds.

Divide the mixture between the two prepared spring form pans, and bake 45 to 55 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and pour generous amounts of whisky over the cakes. Allow to cool on a rack, then unmold and serve at room temperature topped with a little whipped cream. One cake serves 6 to 8

Serve Olga (Tontoni) Roberti’s Casa Duri on a midwinter afternoon by the fireplace, along with a glass of sherry or red wine. This recipe yields a crisp yet non-tooth-breaking cookie due to the amount of egg white folded into the dough. Use the leftover egg yolks to make orange zabaglione with the recipe below, inspired by Joe Rigazio at Hill Crest Farms in Sagamore Beach.

Casa Duri (Home made hard cookies)

2 cups sugar

4 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

About 1 cup of chopped almonds

1 stick (4 ounces) butter (do not use margarine)

2 teaspoons almond extract

1 short glass of whiskey (2 tablespoons)

10 egg whites (beaten stiff)

Make a well with sugar, flour, baking powder and chopped almonds. Melt butter, add almond extract and whiskey. Fold in egg whites. With your hands, form a ball with the dough. Knead until mixture holds together.

Cut off a chunk and roll out on floured board until you get a long rope like strip, a little larger then the size of a pencil. Cut into 1 1/4-inch pieces. Place 1-inch apart on a lightly oiled cookie sheet. Repeat with the rest of the dough. Bake at 350 degrees about 10 minutes or until lightly brown. Let cool. Store in an air-tight glass jar.

Many years ago, Joe Rigazio’s Hill Crest Farm was located on the mainland just off the Sagamore Rotary circle. Joe sold free-range chickens before they were fashionable, as well as beautiful eggs. Joe made a wonderful, rich zabaglione using lots of egg yolks. Layering a large baking dish with lady finders, he sprinkled them with whiskey, spread the creamy yellow zabaglione over the ladyfingers, and scattered the top with chopped toasted almonds.

Inspired by Joe’s zabaglione, I developed this elegant dessert for a holiday dinner party. With guests gathered in the kitchen, I created this rich, citrusy dessert before their eyes.

Orange Zabaglione

3 egg yolks

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons orange liqueur

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon sugar

Sliced toasted almonds

In a large copper bowl combine the egg yolks, sugar, grated orange peel, orange juice and orange liqueur, beat with a wire whisk or electric mixer until mixture is frothy. Place the bowl over a pan of boiling water, about 1-inch from water (not touching); continue beating, about 6 to 8 minutes or until mixture mounds when whisk or beaters are lifted. Remove from pan and set aside. In a separate mixing bowl beat whipping cream to stiff peaks. Spoon warm orange mixtures into long-stemmed goblets, top each serving with a dollop of the whipped cream and sliced almonds; serve immediately. You may also make the orange mixture ahead of time, refrigerate and put the whipped cream and almonds on just before serving. Makes 4.

This dough is extremely firm, with an elastic quality similar to pasta dough. Alba used her pasta machine to roll out this dough. To make it even thinner she would pull the dough as it come out of the machine.

Alba Papi’s Bugie

2 cups flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 heaping tablespoon butter (melted)

2 jiggers (4 tablespoons) white cooking wine*

*I used whiskey

Sift and mix the first four ingredients in a large bowl and set aside. In smaller bowl beat the eggs, add the vanilla, butter, wine or whisky, and add to dry ingredients. Mix and knead all ingredients well to form a dough. Wrap in plastic and let dough rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Roll out dough with a pasta machine or on a floured board into wafer thin sheets.

With a pastry wheel cut strips about 3/4-inch wide and 6-inches long. Tie each strip gently into a knot.

Fill a 2-guart saucepan about half full of cooking oil and heat to 365 to 370 degrees F on a frying thermometer. Lower several pastries at a time into the hot oil and cook until light brown. Remove from pan with a slotted spoon, place on paper towels, and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar when cool. Keep in an airtight container in cool place until ready to serve. Makes about 4 dozen.

Most of the Italian women in the neighborhood traditionally made their Budino with milk. I prefer heavy cream, with whiskey poured over the top while it is still hot. This produces an extremely, velvety, rich custard.

The best way to cook this recipe is in a double boiler over medium heat. To bake it, I use a four-cup battered and worn metal tube pan inherited from my Aunt Mary. It fits perfectly in a four-quart copper and stainless steel pan with a lid. If you do not have a tube pan, any 4-cup soufflé dish placed in a water bath in a 325-degree oven will also work.

Budino (Crème Caramel)

1/2 cup sugar for caramel

2 teaspoons water

6 eggs

1/4 cup sugar

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup whiskey

Caramelize sugar with the water in the metal tube pan, over a medium flame (see photo), holding the pan with tongs and rolling the pan making sure the sides of the pan are covered. If using a soufflé dish, put the sugar in a small, heavy saucepan and place it over medium- to high heat and bring to a boil, stirring with a metal spoon, until the sugar is a deep amber color and has caramelized. Then pour the mixture immediately into the soufflé dish, rolling the dish to coat both sides and bottom and set aside.

In a bowl combine the eggs with the sugar until thick and lemon-colored. Gradually add the cream and vanilla; beat until blended. Pour egg mixture into prepared pan or dish and place, covered, over medium boiling water for 30 to 35 minutes or until the tip of a knife inserted in center of custard comes out clean. Remove from pan, pour whisky over the hot custard, and place on a rack to cool. Serves 12 to 14.

John Carafoli, cooking expert and food stylist based on the Upper Cape, encourages readers to send comments or questions, which he will answer in his column on the first Wednesday of each month. Send inquiries to “Cooking With Carafoli,” care of, Cape Cod Times Food Editor Gwenn Friss, 319 Main St., Hyannis, MA 02601, or e-mail to gfriss@capecodonline.com. Tips and information are also available at his Web site, www.carafoli.com.

(Published: December 1, 2004)

Years ago, I noticed how many children show an early interest in cooking – usually when they are seven years old, or even younger. I thought children should have their own cookbooks, blending straightforward basics and step-by-step instructions with colorful and fun illustrations. So that’s what we came up with.

When we wrote these two cookbooks, “Look Who’s Cooking” and “The Cookie Cookbook” in the 70s, I was living in Chicago. I was an art director/designer and my former wife, Marci, was a children’s book editor at a prestigious publishing house. Unfortunately, the books are out of print, but there are copies available through some Cape libraries. And, with summer vacation coming up, it seemed the ideal time to share these books with you in this column.

Experimenting with cooking can be an important part of development. It can give children an exciting, creative outlet and show them how to take care of themselves in a way that will last all their lives. Cooking a meal can build self-confidence, not only in cooking, but in other areas as well.

When my niece and nephew were young, they loved to come to Uncle Johnny’s house to play and cook. The recipes that follow are a few of the things we would cook up. They are nutritious and simple, and were planned to give children considerable satisfaction with little difficulty. Your encouragement and praise will be as important to your child as it always is. You may find time spent cooking together adds yet another level to the parent-child relationship.

No child should be allowed to work in the kitchen unsupervised, no matter how simple the recipe is that he or she wants to try. For a child, a kitchen can be full of potential hazards and an adult should always be standing by as “second cook.”

The second cook should always be there to turn on the oven, put food in and take it out of the oven, and help with cutting, chopping and grating. Explaining the basics of “kitchen know-how” is very important, for example: the difference between a teaspoon and a tablespoon, and the graduated markings on a measuring cup. This information is very helpful to the child.

I learned it is very important NOT to take over when helping. Remember that the child is the chef and you are just the second cook. If you think you can have a clean floor when they are finished, forget it. Just enjoy the process!

From now on, it’s the child’s show and I have written the following for the budding chefs.

It is fun to cook a special dish to surprise your family or friends, or to cook just because you feel like cooking. Here are 10 things you should remember.

1. Always have a grown-up nearby as “second cook”.

Have the second cook turn on the oven or broiler and help when you use sharp knives to try difficult things.

2. Wash your hands before you start.

3. Use an apron to keep you clothes clean.

4. Read the recipe carefully before you start.

5. Put out all the things you need. Be sure they are the right things. Measure what needs to be measured. Chop what needs to be chopped.

6. Always use dry potholders when you handle hot things.

7. Chop on a chopping board.

8. Turn panhandles to the side of the stove.

9. Keep paper towels handy to wipe spills, but do not keep them on the stove.

10. Be sure to clean up after you have finished.

Corny Crunch Chicken

(Serves 6)

You will need:

1/2 stick soft butter

3 cups corn flakes

6 pieces of chicken, (your favorite parts)

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt and pepper

Baking pan

Bowl

Measuring cup

Potholders

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Put butter in baking pan. Put pan in oven until butter melts. Remove from oven with potholders.

3. Crush corn flakes in a bowl with you hands.

4. Put chicken on a plate and squeeze lemon over chicken.

5. Roll chicken on all sides in the melted butter in the baking pan.

6. Roll buttered chicken in corn flakes. The cornflakes should cover chicken on all sides.

7. Put the chicken pieces back in baking pan side by side and bake for 1 hour. Serve hot.

Cheese And Egg Salad Muffins

(Makes 4)

You Will Need:

2 English muffins or 4 slices of bread

Butter

2 hard cooked eggs

2 big tablespoons mayonnaise

1/8 teaspoon salt

Dash of pepper

4 slices pizza cheese

2 black olives cut in half

Toaster

Knife

Bowl

Fork

Measuring spoons

Spoon

Baking dish

Potholders

Pancake turner

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Toast muffin halves or bread, and then butter them.

3. Chop eggs in bowl with a fork.

4. Add mayonnaise, salt, pepper and mix well.

5. Spread big tablespoon of egg salad on each muffin half.

6. Top with cheese slice and olive half.

7. Put in pan and bake until cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Serve hot (but be careful not to burn yourself. Cheese gets very hot!)

Monkey Treats

(Serves 4)

You Will Need:

4 bananas

1/4 cup brown sugar

Crushed pineapple (8-ounce can), drained

4 tablespoons butter

Whipped cream or ice cream

Knife

Small broiler pan without rack or small baking dish

Spoon

Potholders

Pancake turner

1. Take skin off bananas.

2. Cut bananas in half, then cut in half again the long way, and put in pan.

3. Top with brown sugar.

4. Sprinkle with crushed pineapple.

5. Dot with butter. Use 1 tablespoon for each banana.

6. Broil, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove with pancake turner.

7. Serve hot, topped with whipped cream or ice cream.

Uncle Johnny’s Special Cookies

(Makes 4 dozen)

You Will Need:

8 tablespoons or 1 stick butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed firmly in measuring cup

1/2 cup honey

2 eggs

3 tablespoons milk

1 3/4 cups whole-wheat flour

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups granola

Cookie sheet

Measuring spoons

Measuring cup

Mixing bowl

Electric beater

Mixing spoon

Potholders

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees and grease cookie sheet.

2. Put soft butter, vanilla, brown sugar, honey, eggs and milk in the mixing bowl and beat for two minutes with the electric beater.

3. Add flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt, and mix well with a spoon.

4. Add granola and mix with a spoon.

5. Drop dough onto the cookie sheet a teaspoon at a time about 2 inches apart.

6. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until brown.

7. Let cookies cool on the cookie sheet.

John F. Carafoli, cooking expert and food stylist based on the upper Cape encourages readers comments and food questions on his column that appears the first Wednesday of each month. Send inquiries to “Cooking with Carafoli” care of, Cape Cod Times Food Editor Gwenn Friss, 319 Main Street, Hyannis MA 02601, or e-mail to . Tips and information are also available at his Web site,

“Tempting the Palate: The Food Stylist’s Art,” a paper Carafoli prepared for the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, appears in this month’s issue of Gastronomica, The Journal of Food and Culture

(Published: June 4, 2003)

Breakfast of Champs
Pre-dawn swimming team brings friendship, fitness and fine food

My alarm goes off at 4:45 a.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Outside, it’s always dark at that hour. Sometimes it’s raining, snowing or sleeting here on Cape Cod. I don’t think about what’s next. I just do it – roll out of bed, slip into the clothes I laid out the night before, head downstairs to the kitchen with my swim bag bouncing behind me, and blend a whey protein drink with fresh orange juice and a banana – just enough to provide a kick of energy until a post-workout breakfast later.

Food stylist and columnist John F. Carafoli of Sagamore Beach does the butterfly stroke in the Sandwich High pool.
(Staff photo by Vincent DeWitt)
I get into the car and steer in the direction of Sandwich High School – sipping my protein drink en route – where I join 15 to 20 other hardcore individuals for the hour-and-a-half masters swim workout. As we sign in, Joe Smith, our dedicated coach, is writing the day’s workout on the board. Joe, who works in special education services at Sandwich High helping students with math and science, began coaching swimming in 1972. Five years ago, he came from Virginia to Sandwich, where he took over the local Adult Masters Swim program.

do each morning, how I’ll muster the energy to get through the next 90 minutes. Halfway through the workout, though, the endorphins kick in. The group’s energy is high, and we begin to talk back and forth, covering the gamut from sports, to how many miles someone did on their bike yesterday, to a great non-chlorinated pool someone else found recently on their European vacation. Joe calls out, ”Is this a swim workout or a word workout?” pointing to the next set on the board.

Our swim workouts are fast-paced, consisting of 3,500 to 4,200 yards or more in a concentrated period of time. Many of the swimmers are triathletes, and have learned ways to maintain their energy and endurance during challenging events.

Eating for energy
The best pre-exercise routine, I’ve learned, consists of something quickly digested and easily absorbed into your system, such as the high-protein drink I prepare on my way out the door. And it’s critical to replenish nutrients following strenuous exercise as well. Our bodies need fuel to perform properly at all times, especially during and after extreme exercising. Several times I have noticed some of my swimming colleagues shivering. This sometimes happens to me in the late afternoon when I don’t have adequate protein in my system. A piece of leftover chicken or almond butter on a piece of whole-wheat toast with a cup of green tea works for me. I have learned a lot about maintaining a high energy level from David W. Leaf, a Plymouth-based chiropractor with whom I’ve worked for years, Leaf has worked with the New England Patriots, as well as AC Milan, one of the top soccer teams in Europe, and has treated many Olympic medalists.

”Make the night before your workout pasta night,” he recently advised me. ”You want to have those long chains of starches digesting slowly and available for you as triglycerides, cholesterol, and fats (which) are burning off as you are swimming.”

Leaf added that minerals also play a key role in enabling your muscles to function. These, along with proteins before and after a workout, help turn your exercise routine into a muscle-building experience rather than simply an exercise in performance. Minerals such as magnesium and potassium, taken within 30 minutes after a workout, appear to reduce damage and delay muscle soreness. Leaf said the soccer team he works with consumes a protein drink immediately after practice.

Stacey Richmond, registered dietitian and nutritional counselor in Yarmouthport and Plymouth said, ”Eating breakfast is the best way to fuel your body and brain for the day. It boosts your metabolism, improves concentration and provides your body with adequate fuel.”

Richmond educates people on the importance of consuming a variety of foods in the morning, such as whole grain cereals or toast and lowfat dairy.

”Whole food eating is consuming food as close to the natural state as possible. Examples would be oatmeal, fresh fruits and vegetables, lean meats, legumes, eggs and tofu. Other meatless ways of getting enough protein during the day are beans, seeds and nut butters.”

Breaking bread
A hearty, balanced meal following a strenuous workout is key.

The post-swim breakfast buffet hosted by Gail and Bruce Gilmore a few weeks ago was a good example. Gail, a mother of three, is a committed and accomplished athlete. She has competed in four Iron Man competitions, and has done several eight-mile swims in Lake Champlain. Descending on the beautiful Gilmore household, we were greeted by a colorful buffet. A huge bowl of assorted fresh fruits and a large basket of rolls and bagels was followed by a potato casserole topped with a crunchy layer of buttery cornflakes, crispy bacon and sausages, delectable French toast, and a delicious tofu pie made especially for our vegetarian friend and tri-athlete Karen Smith-Rohrberg. Karen held the world record for one of the Hawaii Iron Man competitions when she was regularly competing in Hawaii. She also has run the Boston Marathon 23 times.

Recipes for Gail’s sumptuous brunch menu follow, along with a favorite muffin recipe of mine. In addition to being a good source of replenishment following a strenuous workout, these items would make a great brunch any time.

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”I made a few changes of my own. I melted the butter and sautéed the onions first before combining with rest of ingredients. I also added 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes and I did not use as many crushed cornflake crumbs as the recipe called for. I put them on top and drizzled butter on top instead of mixing as suggested.” said Gail Gilmore, of this recipe she found in the ”Tried & True Favorites” section at the Web site, www.allrecipes.com.

Hash Brown Casserole

1 (2-pound) package frozen hash brown potatoes, thawed

1/2 cup melted butter

1 (10.75 ounce) can condensed cream of chicken soup

1 (8 ounce) container sour cream

1/2 cup chopped onions

2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 cups crushed cornflakes cereal

1/4 cup melted butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). In a large bowl, combine hash browns, 1/2 cup melted butter, cream of chicken soup, sour cream, chopped onion (saute first, if desired), cheddar cheese, salt and pepper. Place mixture in a 3-quart casserole dish.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, sauté cornflakes in 1/4 cup melted butter, and sprinkle the mixture over the top of the casserole.

Bake covered in preheated oven for 40 minutes. Serves 12

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”I changed it slightly by using 12 ounces extra firm tofu and increasing the milk a little bit. I used onion powder instead of diced onions.” Gilmore said.

Eggless Tofu Spinach Quiche

1 (8-ounce) container tofu

1/3 cup 1 percent milk

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 cup diced onion

2/3 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1/2 cup shredded Swiss cheese

1 unbaked 9-inch pie crust

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).

In a blender, combine tofu and milk; process until smooth, adding more milk if necessary. Blend in salt and pepper.

In a medium bowl, combine spinach, garlic, onion, cheddar cheese, Swiss cheese and tofu mixture. Mix well, and pour into prepared piecrust.

Bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes, or until set and golden brown on top. Let stand 5 minutes before cutting. Serves 6

– Recipe from www.allrecipes.com

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”I used a one-pound package of raisin bread instead of French baguette. I dipped each slice in egg then tore it into pieces to make sure all of it was well coated. No raisins needed,” Gilmore said.

Apple-Raisin French Toast Casserole

1 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup butter, melted

3 apples – peeled, cored and sliced

1/2 cup raisins

1 (1-pound) loaf French baguette, cut into 1-inch slices

6 eggs, lightly beaten

1 1/2 cups milk

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a large bowl, mix together brown sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Mix in melted butter. Stir in apples and raisins until evenly coated. Pour into prepared pan. Arrange bread slices in an even layer over apples.

In the bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, vanilla and 2 teaspoons cinnamon. Pour over bread, making sure every slice is fully soaked. Cover with aluminum foil, and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Remove dish from refrigerator while the oven is heating. Bake covered for 40 minutes. Remove cover, and bake 5 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before serving. Serves 12

– Recipe from www.allrecipes.com

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Here is a delicious bran muffin I make that is easy to prepare, and you can use the basic recipe to create other varieties. For example instead of using a banana, I sometimes fold a cup of blueberries into the batter to make blueberry bran. Or do the same thing with chopped cranberries. When baking, all ingredients should be at room temperature. You may bake immediately or refrigerate over night and bake the next morning.

Banana Bran Muffins with Streusel Topping

1 1/4 cup all bran cereal

1/2 cup wheat germ

1 1/4 cup butter milk

1 1/2 cups flour (3/4 white whole-wheat flour and 3/4 cup white all-purpose flour)

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup chopped pecans

1 egg

1/4 cup butter, melted

1/2 cup maple syrup or honey

1/4 cup molasses

1 ripe banana, mashed

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Streusel Topping:

1/4 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Put all the ingredients for topping into a small bowl and work with your fingers or a fork until the ingredients are mixed and the mixture is in coarse crumbs. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Measure bran cereal, wheat germ, and milk into a medium bowl; mix and let stand until bran and wheat germ have softened, about 5 to 8 minutes.

In a large mixing bowl, sift the flours, baking soda, and baking powder and mix well with a whisk and set aside.

In another medium bowl, place the egg, butter, maple syrup, molasses and banana. Beat well with a whisk or an electric beater, fold this mixture into the softened bran and wheat germ mix until well combined.

With a rubber spatula, fold the wet ingredients into the dry mixture and continue folding the batter, making sure that all ingredients are well incorporated, then fold in the pecans.

Adjust oven rack to middle portion of oven.

Lightly grease 9 of a 12-cup muffin pan (fill the other cups with a little water). Mound a portion of the batter into each muffin cup, filling to the brim, top each muffin with the streusel topping. Bake muffin until brown about 20 to 25 minutes minutes. Test for doneness. If they are not done, reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake 5 about minutes longer.

Cool in pan about 5 minutes. Serve warm.

Makes 9 large muffins.

Food expert John F. Carafoli’s column appears in the Cape Cod Times food pages on the first Wednesday of the month. Send him your questions about food and cooking by email to gfriss@capecodonline.com or by mail to Gwenn Friss, food editor, Cape Cod Times, 319 Main St., Hyannis, MA 02601.

(Published: November 2, 2005)

Many years ago, I was personally responsible for a major restaurant disaster.

As a student, during the summer months I worked as a lifeguard for the State of Massachusetts. Several of us had been working since the middle of June and as of July 1, we had not been paid. I was tired of borrowing money from my father. Then one day Nora, one of my fellow guards, got word that a nearby upscale restaurant noted for its fine dining and sweeping Cape Cod Bay views was looking for waiters. I had been a bus boy there a few years before under different management. Nora (underage at the time) and I applied for the job. I figured being a bus boy was much harder than being a waiter, so I fibbed a bit, turning my experience as bus boy into that of waiter. No one questioned.

A few days later the phone rang. The restaurant wanted us to work that very weekend, which happened to be Fourth of July – the busiest weekend on the Cape. Nora and I were ecstatic-but a little nervous. Could we pull it off?

Our first night, Nora and I arrived at the restaurant in time for a five o’clock briefing. “John, you take the party of 18 coming in at six,” the manager informed me. He handed me a small notepad and a pen. Shortly thereafter my party arrived. I greeted them warmly and proceeded to take drink orders. This didn’t seem too bad, I thought. After the drinks arrived it was time to take dinner orders.

Everything went smoothly until I got to the tenth person. At that point the second person heard what the ninth person ordered and wanted to change his order. Then the fourth person heard what the twelfth person ordered and changed her order. This happened several more times. By the time I got to the eighteenth person, my hands were wringing wet, my pad was soaked and my notes were a mess. I was totally confused as to who ordered what. I went into the kitchen and confessed to Nora the mess I was in. She said, “Okay, just sit down and organize the dinners. Make a list before you hand in the orders.” That took me 20 minutes. In between I brought bread to the table, more water, and tried to push more drinks. Meanwhile my customers were beginning to get fidgety and annoyed.

To keep things moving, I guessed at what my customers had ordered and put in 18 orders, praying that everything would turn out okay. An hour went by and my table of guests were angry and impatient.

Borrowing dinner

Panicking, I went into the kitchen and started filling my orders with other waiters’ food. When I got to table with the plates of stolen food, I decided to take a creative approach.

“Okay, raise your hands,” I said. “Who had the baked stuffed lobsters, and how many had the filet?” As fast as they raised their hands the dinners were in front of them. I ran back to the kitchen to get more food. Meanwhile the other waiters were waiting for their orders, which I had taken. At this point the chef realized what I had done. Red faced and angry, he ran after me with a large butcher knife. I bolted into the dining room, creating a spectacle before the startled diners.

Back at the table my guests were finishing the last of their meal and I served them coffee and dessert. As for the bill, they paid it in full but do not remember how much they left me for a tip!

I look back on this major learning experience and how I inadvertently ruined a meal for 18 people, not to mention disrupting a whole kitchen. I think of the times I myself have gone out for a special occasion and, instead of having an enjoyable evening, experienced an unpleasant, unrewarding and expensive disaster. These unfortunate occurrences can happen for a number of reasons. We are living in a society where many of our fellow diners are undiscriminating when it comes to what they eat. This breeds restaurants that do not care about quality. In some cases it is also due to the restaurant’s careless attitude, sloppy preparation, and inferior ingredients or, as in the case described above, poorly trained waiters.

One showy Italian restaurant with pretend wood burning ovens (they are actually gas) demonstrated how bad one dining experience could be. The food was inferior, the waiter was totally uninformed about the menu, and a $10 bottle of wine was marked up to $35. I said to myself, Never again! But, I did go back with a group of people some time later because it was an easy place for all of us to meet. I didn’t make a fuss (unusual for me). I ordered the simplest thing on the menu- pasta with oil and garlic. How could any one mess that up? Well, when it arrived in front of me, I took one bit and it tasted like plastic. I checked around in the dish and found a blue piece of plastic. I told the waitress, who said, “Oh, I’m sorry. Do you want something else?” I said no, that was that. Nothing more was offered.

Another time, in a historical restaurant bar, we ordered fried calamari as an appetizer. It came with red pasta sauce from a jar. I ordered a hamburger and a beer. When asked how I wanted the burger, I said pink. It came bloody. The unfriendly waiter said he would bring me another one. While my dining partner ate his meal; I waited for the return of my mine. If you are eating out with someone it is something you do together. When the burger finally arrived, my friend had finished his meal and I was just starting. The burger was the same one reworked and well done. The host, seeing my displeasure (with that and a few other things,) came over to me, acting like I had done something wrong, give me a long lecture as to what the restaurant called rare, medium rare and well done. Disputing him would do me no good. The kitchen did what they wanted to do. The burger came with a side of fries and a pasta salad, two carbohydrates on the plate. Why not a salad or vegetables? After this experience, I wondered just how much knowledge these people have of food. It also was a good example of how a restaurant’s concept and style come first and the clients’ needs second.

Obviously there are fine dining establishments on the Cape. One place I frequent is The Naked Oyster in Hyannis. I like eating at the bar, either by myself or with a friend. The food is of the highest quality and well prepared. And I am assured of having a wonderful meal.

When I talked with the chef, David Kelly, I asked him what causes the most problems in his restaurant. He replied, “I build my dishes with vegetable, protein and starch. I design my plates with a method in mind. Problems for me start when people build the dishes themselves. Special diets are making people request specialty items and substitutions. I offer side dishes so I do not have to substitute. Substitutions interrupt the kitchen’s flow.”

Kelly continues, “People do not understand that several special unplanned requests over the course of the evening can slow the whole restaurant down. Once the kitchen is behind, the dining room is behind. If you are out for a special occasion, forget your diet for a few hours and enjoy yourself.”

Kelley is quite accommodating as long as it does not interfere with the flow of the kitchen. He continued, “If given enough notice I will prepare certain dishes for some of my customers. One man who comes to the restaurant loves chicken livers. It is an item I usually do not have on the menu. When I can get them, I give him a call and prepare them the way he likes them. In this case, I plan ahead so it does not interrupt the kitchen.”

Now, I know many people may not be interested in what happens behind the scenes in a restaurant’s kitchen, but I feel it is important. A meal out should be an enjoyable, hassle-free experience. Restaurants are providing a service and you are paying the bill. The price for quality food in restaurants has escalated and with that comes higher expectations from patrons.

There are also things you can do to help ensure a pleasant restaurant experience:

– Define your expectations for the evening and tell the restaurant when you make a reservation: Are you going out because it has been a rough day or week and are looking for a nice relaxed evening? Is it a special occasion like a first date or an anniversary? Pick a restaurant with ambiance that offers what you are looking for. DO NOT go to a restaurant if you are angry and upset or want to solve personal issues. Solve them at home before venturing out. It is unfair to the person serving you and the people around you.

– Never be late for a reservation. Fifteen minutes could cause the restaurant to lose an entire seating. Always call to cancel if you cannot make the reservation. Never make multiple reservations. Restaurants catch on to this when you do it more than once.

– If you are seated by the host and have an unfriendly, harassed waitperson, request that you be moved to another table. Things will not change. Always be friendly and courteous to your server.

– If you would prefer a different table to the one you are given, don’t be shy- speak up and ask for it. Make sure you are comfortable in the room.

– If going to a restaurant for the first time, consider selecting one or two appetizers and splitting a main course. This will give you a good idea of how the food is prepared and what the chef is trying to do with the menu. As a rule avoid “Early Bird Specials,” which often are inexpensive filler dishes like pasta or something the restaurant wants to move. If a restaurant prides its self on offering large portions at low prices be wary of the quality.

– When ordering wine by the glass, ask the bartender or waitperson if they have other suggestions not listed. If ordering an unfamiliar wine ask for a taste. Most places are more than happy to oblige.

– Don’t hesitate when asked if everything is to your liking. Be honest and direct. Do not be timid about sending food back if it is not cooked the way you like it, or if it isn’t fresh. You are doing a disservice to yourself and the restaurant if you leave unhappy.

– Ask the waitperson not to clear the table before everyone is finished eating. It makes people feel like they are eating slow and should catch up.

– Compliment the chef. If you like a particular item on the menu ask him or her about it. It may give you an idea for something to incorporate into your home cooking.

(Published: October 1, 2003)

The right recipes bring out the best in this delicacy which often gets a bad rap it doesn’t deserve .

I’ve heard enough about the absurd, irrational, disdain many people have for anchovies. So I decided that, rather than trying to convince people verbally of the fish’s versatility, I’d write an article paying tribute to this underutilized delicacy by providing some delicious and different recipes.

The crisp bite of fresh vegetables contrasts pleasantly with the rich, hearty taste of bagna cauda, a delicacy from northeastern Italy. The dip uses anchovies, oil, garlic, capers, parsley and butter.
(Staff photo by Kevin Mingora)
When I talked with my friend, Kevin Mingora – whose beautiful photographs appear with this article – about the food he was to photograph, his first reaction was, “I don’t eat anchovies!” By the end of the photo shoot, not only had he had tasted all the dishes – he was a convert. Others, like my dear friend Samantha Rockman, have been eating anchovies since they were children. Samantha confided, “when I was eight years old, I used to come home from school, take a cracker, spread it with cream cheese and put an anchovy on top. I loved the salty taste!”
Anchovies are a good source for flavoring all sorts of savory dishes including sauces, stews, and roasts. When I began researching this article, I happened to watch a cooking show with Lidia Bastianich, who recommended adding one anchovy to a pot roast, or to a meat sauce for pasta. “It gives depth and complexity to the food,” she said.

Enhancing recipes with fish or a fish sauce is nothing new in the cooking world. The ancient Romans seldom used salt, but instead employed a substance called garum, which was made in large containers by layering fatty fish like sardines with aromatic herbs and salt. It was then left to ferment for seven days in the sun. After that, the Romans mixed it for 20 days until it became a liquid. Garum was a common staple used in the full range of early Roman cuisine.

Today, the anchovy is used to flavor foods.

I always encourage people to expand their culinary repertoire by trying different foods they are not accustomed to eating. Trying these recipes, even if you’ve always thought you didn’t like anchovies, is one way of starting the New Year with a small and satisfying adventure. Enjoy!

Anchovies, anyone?
There are many species of anchovies from all parts of the world. You can buy them:
Canned in olive oil

Whole

Filleted

Rolled in capers

As paste in a tube

Salted (usually found in Italian grocery stores)

The Piedmont region, located in the far northeast corner of Italy, bordering France to the west and Switzerland to the north, is known for its famous white truffles from the area around Alba and Asti. Truffles often are combined with anchovies in local cuisine. One of the most flavorful savory peasant dishes, Bagna cauda, is a sort of fondue made from anchovies, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, capers, parsley, butter, and a shaving of white truffle, which is served as a dip with fresh raw vegetables.

Pronounced BAHN-yah KOW-dah, the term comes from bagna caldo, Italian for “hot bath.” A savory dish, quick and easy to prepare, this can be served right in the same dish or pot in which it is made. Serve it as a chic finger-food treat for your next cocktail party, or as a casual dinner for friends or family.

Bagna Cauda

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon garlic, finely minced

1 (2-ounce) can rolled anchovy fillets with capers

1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped

Combine the olive oil, butter and garlic in a chafing dish, cast-iron pan, or enamel or earthenware casserole. Simmer the ingredients for a few minutes over medium heat.

Do not let the garlic turn brown. Add the anchovies with the capers and the parsley. Simmer the mixture for 15 minutes, or until the flavors are well integrated. (The anchovies will dissolve.) Remove the pot from the stove and place it over a candle warmer or spirit lamp. Serve it with assorted crisp vegetables and Italian or French bread, along with a bold-spirited red wine such as a Valpolicella or if you prefer white, a crisp Savor.

Bagnet (a term familiar to the Piedmontese) was my Aunt Mary’s recipe, passed down from her mother (my grandmother) who got it from the people in the village of Sagamore who were originally from Piedmont. It is a sauce used as a spread on slices of Italian bread or crackers, or as an hors d’ oeuvre. I like to use salted anchovies if they are available, but they must be cleaned and washed. One-quarter of a pound is plenty.

Bagnet

2 to 3 cups fresh Italian parsley

3 cloves garlic

2 red or green peppers

1 large carrot

2 medium onions

1 cup olive oil

2 cans (2 ounce each) anchovies (with or without capers)

2 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1/4 cup vinegar or to taste

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes or to taste

Put parsley, garlic, peppers, carrot, and onions through a meat grinder, alternating small amounts of each ingredient as you proceed. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, heat the oil and anchovies, dissolving the anchovies completely. To the oil and anchovies add the vegetable mixture, tomato sauce, vinegar and red pepper. Bring to a boil and cook over medium-low heat uncovered for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Store in the refrigerator or freeze. (It freezes well.) Makes about 5 1/2 cups.

This is a tasty twist on an old classic, pasta served tossed with an anchovy sauce. The difference is that I partially cook the pasta and then finish cooking it in the sauce over high heat, making a very rich and intense dish. Don’t worry about the amount of pasta water you’re adding to the sauce. It will reduce as it cooks and helps bind the sauce.

When serving it to guests (who you know have no allergies), don’t tell them there are anchovies in the sauce, and see what they say.

Anchovy Sauce Cooked with Linguine

1/4 cup olive oil

1 (2-ounce) can anchovies packed in olive oil, undrained

1 to 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/2 cup dry white wine

3 tablespoons drained capers in brine (or capers in salt, rinsed and drained)

1/2 heaping cup chopped Italian parsley

1 pound linguine

Zest of 1 lemon, grated

Salt (for cooking linguine)

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a deep, heavy skillet large enough to hold the cooked pasta (about 12 inches in diameter). Add the anchovies, garlic, and red pepper and sauté gently, stirring often, until the garlic turns golden. Immediately dissolve the tomato paste in the wine and stir into the mixture. Stir in the capers and about 1/3 cup of the parsley, reserving the rest. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce, uncovered, for about 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring 5 quarts water to a boil in a large (6- to 8-quart) saucepan. Add the lemon zest while it heats. When the water boils, add the salt, drop in the linguini and cook just until it has wilted, about 1 minute. It will still be close to raw. Add 3 to 4 ladlefuls of the linguine cooking water to the anchovy sauce. Drain the linguine in a colander and add it to the sauce in the skillet, toss or stir with two wooden spoons or a pasta fork to distribute the contents, turn up the heat to high and finish cooking the pasta in the sauce, uncovered, for about 8 minutes. The liquid will reduce and the pasta will be al dente. To serve, turn into four large heated bowls and sprinkle with the reserved chopped parsley. Serves 4.

The traditional Caesar Salad recipe provided here calls for anchovies. Some restaurants refuse to put them on the salad and most don’t make the dressing with them. A Caesar Salad without anchovies is not a real Caesar Salad. My partner, John Murelle, makes this version with anchovy paste rather than whole anchovies, and without the traditional raw egg, and you can’t tell the difference.

Caesar Salad

2 medium heads romaine lettuce

1 tablespoon anchovy paste

1 clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

5 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup finely grated freshly Parmesan cheese

1 1/2 cups croutons*

Separate the leaves of the romaine; wash and dry thoroughly. Cut or tear the leaves into bite-size pieces. In a large salad bowl, add the next five ingredients. Working with a large spoon, mix all ingredients together until well combined. Add the lemon juice, olive oil and pepper, and continue to mix with the spoon until well-incorporated. Add the lettuce and toss until all the dressing has coated the leaves. Add the Parmesan cheese and croutons, toss again several times then divide equally between four chilled plates and serve. Serves 4.

* Homemade croutons

Making your own croutons for this salad is a much tastier alternative to store-bought ones. You will need about 1 1/2 cups. Make extra and store in an airtight container for another use.

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup 1/2-inch bread cubes made from stale French or Italian bread

Mix the garlic with the olive oil, cut 1/2-inch pieces off of a baguette or Italian bread, and brush both sides with the garlic-oil mixture. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes, place them in an iron skillet on very low heat, and toss periodically until they are light brown on all sides. The garlic will not brown or burn if the heat is kept low enough.

Cauliflower in Brown Butter Sauce, made with just a touch of anchovy paste, is a delicious and unusual side dish that could enhance any meal. I developed this dish just before the photo shoot for this article and tested it out on the photographer. He loved it!

Cauliflower in Brown Butter Sauce

1 head cauliflower

4 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon anchovy paste

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Fresh ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Trim the cauliflower head; cutting the branches into florets. Place the trimmed vegetable into a large pot of salted boiling water and cook 5 to 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and keep warm. In a medium saucepan, add the butter, olive oil, and garlic. Sauté until garlic starts to turn light brown. Stir in the anchovy paste and lemon juice; cook 2 to 3 minutes until well incorporated. Add the cauliflower and fresh ground pepper, and toss until well coated. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings as a vegetable side dish.

John Carafoli, cooking expert and food stylist based on the Upper Cape, encourages readers to send comments or questions, which he will answer in his column on the first Wednesday of each month. Send inquiries to “Cooking With Carafoli,” care of, Cape Cod Times Food Editor Gwenn Friss, 319 Main St., Hyannis, MA 02601, or e-mail to gfriss@capecodonline.com. Tips and information are also available at his Web site, www.carafoli.com.

(Published: January 5, 2005)

It started two months ago when I noticed a buckle in my kitchen floor. This is the tile floor I put down three years ago when I remodeled the kitchen. At that time, I installed new wainscoted cabinets, new lighting above and below the cabinets, stereo speakers, an 8-foot granite countertop, a tumbled granite backsplash and an oversized, deep stainless steel sink in order to clean my commercial cooking equipment.

My kitchen is the heart of my house. I was happy with my design choices. It was a comfortable environment in which to cook and entertain. My guests typically gather around my 500-pound chopping block in the middle of the kitchen, nibbling hors d’oeuvres and sipping wine while I cook. It is also where I write my articles, develop recipes and stage photo shoots.

Disaster strikes
All this came to an abrupt end when I called my contractor to look at the small bump in the new floor. We discovered a major problem. The dishwasher had been leaking for more than a year. The damage went under the entire kitchen floor and continued into the pine floor in the dining room.

In a 100-year-old house, you sometimes just don’t know what to expect until work has started.Everything in the kitchen had to be moved out: my 1,000-pound, six-burner, two-oven, Garland range with broiler and grill; the huge chopping block; the 8-foot-high glass-door refrigerator; the electric oven I use for recipe testing; the microwave; and the 8-foot granite top with cabinets below. All were wheeled into the dining and living rooms, along with my wine cooler. I made sure it was plugged in and easily accessible.

I did not have a kitchen! A cook without a kitchen is like an actor without a stage.

Creative improvising
I bought a refrigerator, placed it on the porch and arranged two large areas for workspace. I placed a blender, toaster and coffee grinder on one table, and pots and pans under the counter that came out of the kitchen. I put two gas camping burners on the other workspace. I now have a working outdoor kitchen. Thanks goodness it’s summer.

We carried our dishes to the cellar in a plastic container. They were washed in my old soapstone sink and placed in a dish rack on the porch to air-dry. My partner suggested we use paper plates. Never!

For breakfast, I typically scrambled eggs with goat cheese, fresh herbs from my garden, and fresh chopped tomatoes in an 8-inch sauté pan. Another morning, I poached eggs .

For lunch or supper, I like to drain a can of cannellini (white kidney beans) and toss them with extra virgin olive oil, a splash of red wine vinegar, sliced Vidalia onion, a can of Italian tuna fish, capers, and salt and pepper. I served the mixture over assorted fresh salad greens from Crow Farm. Another day I made a curried lobster salad. I buy all my fish from Joe’s Fish and Lobster Mart on the Cape Cod Canal in Sandwich. For fresh lobster meat, I get there early in the morning when the lobsters are cooked and sometimes still warm.

Another option for cooking was my outdoor grill, which I added to my porch kitchen. It is the short season for striped bass, and I take advantage of it. Joe, Scott and Tanya at Joe’s always clue me in as to what is fresh and local. They have never steered me wrong.

When the weather hit the 90s, I made a cold carrot ginger soup and a gazpacho perfect for eating light. When things cooled down, I cooked a simple pasta dish. I get homegrown tomatoes, seed and roughly chop, and toss them in a bowl with cut-up cubes of peppered brie (sometimes I use gorgonzola dolce instead of brie), chiffonade of fresh basil, salt and pepper. I then mix it into warm linguini. The cheese melts and creates a wonderful creamy sauce.

Taking a break
When I needed to boost my spirits, which happened quite often, I would go to my favorite restaurants and have them take care of me. Here are the restaurants that saved my sanity and relationship during my renovations.

If I have a craving for more lobster or fried clams, I head a few miles down the road with a bottle of beer to the Seafood Shanty along the canal. The Economides family makes one of the best traditional lobster rolls around. And for a great lunch like a Greek salad and a hefty sandwich, I go to Pain D’Avignon in Hyannis and always come home with several loaves of their wonderful bread.

If I take a day down Cape, it is always The Brewster Fish House. The food is wonderfully consistent, with great service. For casual bar dining, I like the Naked Oyster in Hyannis. Manny Pavlakis makes the best martinis (stirred not shaken) with caper berries. If I am really down and out, and need special treatment, Kolleen and Gilbert Pepin at Restaurant 902 Main in South Yarmouth fit that bill. If my mood swings toward creative Italian, I go to Abbicci. I talked to my long-time friend Marietta Bomardieri who closed her restaurant, Abbicci, for major construction this past winter. Here are her techniques for handling a stressful situation without a kitchen in a major business: ”It is extremely important to have a clear visualizing of what the end product will look like. Visualizing oneself in the new space, enjoying your new kitchen, cooking and entertaining in that environment is very important. Basically, we are projecting a picture of what we are trying to accomplish. This is how I keep this huge project going.”

Marietta plans to open Abbicci Aug. 24.

I agree with her, and I keep visualizing my repaired – and even somewhat improved – kitchen. But as I write this, it’s not done yet.

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Cooking in my al fresco kitchen was challenging and called for creativity. These recipes can also be cooked in your kitchen.

When I top any mixed greens with a salad like this one, I like tossing the greens first with a light dressing. It adds another dimension to the salad. Here I use a lime vinaigrette dressing (below) for the greens.

Curry Lobster Salad

For the lobster salad:

1 pound cooked lobster meat, cut into bite-size chunks

Juice of 1/2 lime

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 tablespoon mild curry powder

1 stalk of celery, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh minced tarragon leaves

1 hard-boiled egg, chopped

For the greens:

4 ounces fresh baby greens

4 ounces fresh watercress

1 pint cherry tomatoes for garnish

For the lime vinaigrette

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon lime zest

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

In a medium bowl, combine the lobster meat with the lime juice; mix well, and set aside.

Put the mayonnaise in a small bowl and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan, add the curry and heat for 1 minute, add the heated curry and the tarragon to the mayonnaise; mix until well-combined.

Add celery and chopped egg to the lobster meat, then fold in the curried mayonnaise, mixing well to combine all ingredients. Add pepper and salt to taste. Put in covered container and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To assemble salad: Just before serving, toss the greens with 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the dressing to coat lightly.

Divide the salad equally among four plates and divide the lobster mixture equally as well. Serve garnished with sliced grape tomatoes.

To make the lime vinaigrette: In a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine all ingredients, cover the jar and shake vigorously until well combined. Store in refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1 cup. You will not need all this dressing for the salad, but it will keep with the lid tightly closed in the refrigerator.

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A bowl of this bright cold and colorful soup is terrific for those hot summer days. Topped with a dollop of sour cream and chopped mint or cilantro, it makes a great presentation.

Cold Carrot Ginger Soup

3 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1 32-ounce can chicken or vegetable stock

1 small onion, chopped

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped

2 cups water

1 teaspoon butter

1/2 teaspoon mild curry powder

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Sour cream and fresh chopped mint or cilantro for garnish

Combine first six ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer about 20 minutes, covered, until carrots are cooked. Remove from heat.

Melt the butter in a small sauté pan, add the curry powder, and heat slightly. This will bring out the flavor of the curry; mix well into the carrot liquid.

In a food processor or blender, puree the mixture in small batches and put mixture in a large bowl. Add salt and pepper. Chill in refrigerator for several hours before serving. Serve in chilled bowls and top with a dollop of sour cream and mint or cilantro.

Note: If soup is too thick, add a little more chicken stock or water to thin it out. Serves 4 to 6.

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This is a great marinade for other fish like haddock and swordfish. I have also cooked the filets under a broiler in a shallow pan with some of the marinade over the fish.

Grilled Striped Bass Filets

4 striped bass filets

For citrus marinade:

Juice and zest of 1/2 fresh grapefruit

Juice of 1/2 lime

1/4 cup white wine

1/4 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon EACH: fresh thyme, parsley, marjoram or tarragon

3 tablespoons minced onion

1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper

Combine the above ingredients for the marinade in a bowl large enough to hold the bass filets and mix well.

Place the bass in the bowl, making sure the filets are covered. Marinate for 20 to 25 minutes.

Place filets on an oiled, heated grill, basting with the marinade and turning once until fish flakes. Serves 4.

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The grilled tomatoes will make a good accompaniment to the striped bass, along with a crispy green salad, for a perfect summer meal.

Grilled Tomatoes with Sage and Goat Cheese

4 large tomatoes cut into 1/2-inch slices

1/2 pound goat cheese

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh sage, chopped fine

1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

3 tablespoons heavy cream

Salt to taste

Olive oil

In a medium bowl, put the goat cheese, sage, pepper and cream. With spatula or wooden spoon, mix together until well-combined.

Brush all sides of the tomatoes with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and place the tomatoes on an oiled vegetable rack. Place a tablespoon of mixture on top of each tomato, and place rack on grill for 10 to 12 minutes until tomato starts to grill. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

(Published: August 23, 2006)

After weathering several “in” and “out” cycles over the past decades, ’50s food is once again making a comeback. Old-fashioned “comfort food” is reappearing on many restaurant menus, and the theme has spawned several new cookbooks. Signs of ’50s favorites being back in favor are appearing closer to home, too. Following a recent photo shoot, I volunteered to bring desserts to a celebratory studio party. I brought two, one a rustic Italian specialty and the other an unsophisticated, retro very ’50s Jell-O cake, which had been a favorite of mine as a child. When it was served everyone was wowed by it.

Here’s how to make it:

Cut an angle food cake in half horizontally. Place 1 cup fruit in a bowl slightly larger than the cake. (I used fresh raspberries and blackberries.) Put the first layer of cake on top of the fruit, add another cup or so of fruit, then place second layer of cake on top of that. Next take three packages of raspberry Jell-O mixed with 2 cups boiling water and add 1 cup cold water (the Jell-O has to be made strong.) Pour this mixture over the cake. Press it down with your hands to ensure the Jell-O is absorbed into the cake. Place the bowl, covered, in the refrigerator and let it set for several hours or overnight. When ready to serve, invert the cake on to a plate (by dipping the bowl into hot water for 30 seconds) and slather the top with whipped cream.

The resurgence of ’50s food has moved into home kitchens, too. Joe Smith, my swim coach, told me just the other day that he received a Spam cookbook for Christmas, and is enjoying trying out some recipes made from this ’50s staple. And my very dear friend April Eberhardt, a writer who wears cat eye glasses, and occasionally sports leopard print Capri pants and pointy-toed pumps, has never stopped being an aficionado of the ’50s, in particular that era’s food.

While we were talking the other day, she mentioned several dishes she makes regularly, things like Tunaroni casseroles and quick and easy one-pot suppers.

We laughed about some of the other foods from that era that we remembered as children. “Yeah, what about that Hamburger Helper and those fluorescent orange Velveeta Cheese sandwiches?”

Since April seemed to be so into the ’50s, and that, was my theme for this months column, I asked her to write a few paragraphs and to include some of her favorite recipes. She writes:

Let’s get one thing right on the table: I’m from New Jersey. The middle child in a family of five kids, I came of age in the 1950s when food was still food, not cuisine.

Casseroles ruled, salads meant iceberg, and dessert was canned fruit, or some variation thereof. While my tastes have evolved somewhat during many decades spent traipsing through the world’s capitals (and learning the meaning of fine food at Carafoli’s table,) I can still appreciate a warm and creamy tuna-noodle casserole, a steaming dish of chili over rice, and a delectable fruit cobbler or moist sherry cake.

A big benefit of those large-family feeders is they’re easy, involving little more than opening a few cans or boxes, plunging a mixer into a pile of ingredients, then dumping the whole thing into a pan and sliding it into the oven. Generally the results are eminently edible, and often downright delicious.

Here are a few favorites culled from my mother’s collection of yellowed, dog-eared index cards still in active use after 60 years. Try these on a lazy winter day, and think of five eager kiddos in small-town New Jersey gathered around the table, clamoring for more.

Chili with Rice and Fritos

1 pound ground beef (ground turkey will do nicely too)

2 15.5-ounce cans kidney beans, dark red, light red or mixed,) drained

2 15.5-ounce cans peeled whole tomatoes, undrained

1 medium-sized yellow onion, chopped

2 tablespoons chili powder, or to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup Uncle Ben’s converted rice

1 teaspoon salt

One large bag corn chips (Frito Scoops are the family favorite)

In a large iron skillet or Dutch oven, sauté onion in a dash of oil and water over medium heat until soft and translucent (about five minutes.) Add meat, separating with fork and stirring until browned (five more minutes.) Add kidney beans, tomatoes and their liquid, along with chili powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and several grinds of pepper. Turn heat to low and set timer for 30 minutes.

In a separate 3-quart pot, bring 2 1/4 cup water to boil. Add 1 cup rice and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to second boil. Reduce heat; set timer for 20 minutes (or use what’s left on the chili timer.) Ladle chili over bowls of rice. Serve with a generous side of Fritos for scooping.

Tuna Wiggle

1 pound. fine noodles, cooked per package directions and drained

2 cans tuna in water, drained and flaked

1 10 1/2-ounce can cream of mushroom soup

1 cup sour cream

1 4-ounce can sliced mushrooms, drained

1 cup frozen peas, cooked according to package directions

1 cup potato chips, crushed

Salt and pepper to taste

Blend all ingredients except for potato chips. Pour into a casserole and bake for 30 minutes or until bubbly. Sprinkle with crushed potato chips before serving.

Serve with a side of steamed broccoli and an (iceberg) salad with Russian dressing.

Sherry Cake

1 box yellow cake mix

1 box instant vanilla pudding

4 eggs

3/4 cup salad oil (like canola)

3/4 cup pale dry sherry (the cheaper the better. I never spend more than $4.99 a bottle)

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

Using an electric mixer, blend ingredients at low speed; whip at high speed 5 minutes. Pour into greased tube pan. Bake at 350 degrees 45 to 50 minutes, or until a knife inserted furthest from pan edges comes out clean.

Cherry-Apricot Cobbler

1 15-ounce can sour pitted cherries, drained, half of juice reserved

1 15-ounce can halved apricots, drained, half of juice reserved

1/2 cup white sugar

1 tablespoon. cornstarch, dissolved in 1 to 2 tablespoons hot water

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

Combine cherry and apricot liquids (enough to make about one cup.) Bring to boil. Add sugar, stirring until dissolved. Pour in cornstarch mixture gradually, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add cherries and apricots, stirring to mix. Remove from heat. When nearly cool, add almond extract. Pour fruit mixture into casserole. Top with cobbler topping (recipe below.) Bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes or until bubbly.

Topping

1/2 cup EACH flour, oatmeal, white sugar and brown sugar

1/4 cup butter, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Blend dry ingredients; add butter and vanilla extract, stirring until blended. Spread over fruit and bake.

(Published: January 7, 2004)

http://www.bit.ly/2lzSb4v

This is an interview with me and my friend Anne Mendelson Feb. 23, 2017 on NPR with Mindy Todd.

On a recent trip to Calabria Italy, I was intrigued by the unique fruit bergamot. Here is an article I wrote and developed recipes with the flavor and sometimes used the actual fruit now being grown in CA.