Cooking with Carafoli: Spring, Italian Style

I often travel to Italy, using Bologna as my base. Sometimes, I spend a month at a time there. As soon as I arrive, I feel deeply simpatico, largely due to my early childhood living with my Italian immigrant grandmother Inez, grandfather Luigi, and Aunt Maria. The similarities of Bologna, their hometown, remind me of a past life in the Italian village of Sagamore, especially the people, culture, and food!

La stagionalità, in Italian, refers to cooking with seasonal ingredients.

The time of year I spend in Italy varies, as does the seasonal food available in markets and restaurants. Please don’t ask for asparagus, peas, or any out-of-season produce in winter, because you won’t get it!

This was confirmed by Elda (now passed) and Lisa, mother and daughter, who made fresh pasta in the shop they owned in Bologna. I bought potato and spinach gnocchi – the best I ever had – and squash tortelloni (large pasta tortellini filled with slightly sweetened squash and scented with nutmeg). When I asked for squash tortelloni in mid-November, Lisa responded, “Ma no, e finito!” The squash (zucca) for the season has ended. Not until next year.

One of my favorite traditions while in Italy is visiting the local markets, discovering what is available, and returning home to my apartment to create and cook dishes with fresh, seasonal produce and ingredients. I practice this same tradition when visiting our local farmers’ markets on Cape Cod, where many of our farmers grow interesting varieties of vegetables.

Fresh herbs and herb blossoms bring a burst of color and flavor to homemade meals and are essential to the taste of every dish. Basil, borage, dill, tarragon, and rosemary rank among my favorites for their bright spring flavors. Try my Pea Pesto, which is made with fresh cilantro and parsley, for a unique appetizer spread. Adding fresh herbs to any fish dish proves beneficial. Consider the Halibut with Asparagus, Spring Onions and Herbs for a delicious meal. In addition to fresh herbs, experiment with spices, as I did with the Cardamom Ricotta Cheesecake, to introduce additional flavors.

Photography by By John F. Carafoli

Cooking with Carafoli: Spring, Italian Style

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