Cooking With Carafoli: Traditions Old and New – Appetizers, Side Dishes & Desserts

Salmon Gravlax

Salmon Gravlax

I was living in Chicago, and it was Christmas time, not one of my favorite holidays. Every year at this time, I would fly back to Cape Cod to visit my family. One year I decided to break this tradition and do something completely different. I bought three gifts, wrapped them up, sent them to my family, and found myself on a plane to Jamaica, wondering what I was doing. I had been working hard and needed time to myself.

Early Christmas morning, I left my hotel and walked down a street in Montego Bay. A gentleman was sweeping the sidewalk and cheerfully greeted me with “Merry Christmas.” To the left was an inlet of water with a small raft. I walked to the beach, took off my shirt, dove into the crystal-clear water, and swam to the raft. As I lay in the warm tropical sun and ran my hand through the water, observing the bottom, I was at peace. I then realized that sometimes it is essential to take a leap of faith, challenge oneself, and experience something new. After that day, opportunities opened up. I met new people and experienced Jamaica’s fresh foods and spices. I returned to Chicago refreshed, with new ideas and recipes, one appropriate for this article.

This experience made me realize a couple of things. What fun it is to create new traditions. It changed how I felt about Christmas. We hold on to old traditions until they no longer fulfill our needs.

As far as my holiday food traditions, I am eclectic. I create themes from places I have visited: a Mexican fiesta with mole chicken, a French cassoulet feast, or sometimes just a simple chicken or duck on a rotisserie with traditional fixings. A turkey would never appear on my table! On the eve before Christmas, it is not the whole Italian tradition of the seven fishes, but pasta with anchovies or clam sauce. The next day an appetizer might be gravlax on pieces of small brown bread served with sour cream and dill. Or I make brandade (whipped salted cod) for my French meal. My homemade chilled bergamot vodka makes a great accompaniment to both appetizers.

Everyone has their favorite main course. So this time, I decided to give suggestions for appetizers, side dishes, and desserts. Several are from my travels, others from my Italian heritage, and some are just favorites.

Photography by John F. Carafoli